1920's Men's Clothing

Although it doesn’t get the attention of the female fashions of the time, 1920's men's clothing was, in its way, just as radical as short hemlines and bobbed hair. You wouldn’t know it to look at the business and formal wear of the time – which doesn’t look too different from modern suits – but the clothes worn for leisure personified the free-spirited, youthful attitude of the era.

The end of World War I also saw the end of social classes being strictly divided across fashion lines. A less fussy, more youthful look was embraced by much of society, and the prevailing wisdom dictated that it was less what a man wore than how he wore it that distinguished him.

The idea of a youth movement in clothing is usually associated with the 1950's and especially the 1960's, but it first took hold in the 1920's and can be said to have longer lasting effects. The changes are seen in many details, but were especially radical in casual wear.

The fashions worn on university campuses were copied by men in society, rather than the other way around. 1920's men's clothing on campus was no longer merely a suit. Young men in America took inspiration from those in the UK and wore “Oxford bags” as their trouser of choice. These were high-waisted trousers with legs as wide as 36 inches, and so long they dragged on the ground. They might be matched with a V-neck sweater in a Fair Isle pattern or something similar, which showed off the very popular bow tie. Formal hats were used only for formal occasions – a college man preferred a wool English driving cap or straw hat. Shoes could not be seen under the Oxford bags, but they were nearly always the casual two-tone spectators that were all the rage through the decade.

Many photos featuring 1920's men's clothing show men enjoying the outdoors. An increase in leisure time made for a craze in health and fitness. Men and women alike became more involved in sports. Obviously, baggy trousers could not be worn for golf, tennis or the like. The sporty man instead wore knickers, also called plus-fours, which were usually made of linen. Again, these were topped by the patterned sweater and bow tie, and finished with spectator shoes and the flat cap or straw hat. The yachting look was also popular, whether one was ever on the water or not. For this look, a man wore a navy sport jacket, white trousers and a yachting cap. The Windsor-knot tie looked especially smart as a finishing detail.

Where once silk and worsted weight wool ruled, flannel and tweed now dominated in men’s clothing. Flannel, a soft and comfortable fabric, was often used for men’s trousers, especially in warm weather. They were mostly gray, although white, beige and striped were also popular.

Tweed, a derivation from twill, is a hand-woven wool from Scotland that is smart, with a simple yet distinctive pattern and can be warm and yet lightweight. Tweed was the fabric for men’s flat caps and sport coats throughout the 1920's. The practical fabric found its way into women’s fashions as well.

With vests having been eschewed in favor of pullover sweaters in bold patterns, many young men favored wristwatches over the now old-fashioned pocket watch. Shirts were softer and more casual. Even details in evening wear were less formal, with lace-up shoes being seen instead of black patent leather and the originally shocking “Tuxedo” jacket being seen on formal occasions, whereas before it had been relegated strictly to club functions.

Although the onset of the Great Depression saw conservatism come back into men’s fashions, the modern look had been firmly established and has yet to change.

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