Choosing Men's Suits Interview with Jack
Mackenroth

Choosing a men's suit just got easier, thanks to Season 4 of Project Runway's Jack Mackenroth. The Parsons School of Design graduate opened his own menswear store in New York right after school, then moved on to work with Tommy Hilfiger (men's and women's fashion), and then focused exclusively on menswear again for Slates.

Project Runway's Jack Mackenroth.

After that flurry of design, Jack appeared on Project Runway. He definitely knows his men's clothing! Read on to find out how you should go about choosing a men's suit for yourself.

How did you decide you wanted to design menswear?

Well, I knew I wanted to be a designer since I was about 15. I prefer menswear because I started making clothes for myself. In general, I find menswear to be easier because it's just second nature.

What is the most important bit of knowledge or advice you took away with you from Parsons School of Design?

I can illustrate really well and really quickly which really helps work out preliminary designs. Also, all the basic skills like draping and pattern-making help you understand how anything you might design would be constructed.

What was it like to be on Project Runway? How did being on the show help propel your design career?

Well now, everyone takes my phone calls, which is nice. I used to send out my resume and I was lucky to get one interview out of ten attempts. Plus, I just get a ton of direct emails from people asking me to make designs for them. It's fab.

The show itself was one of the most amazing and grueling experiences of my life. We never had a day off but I really learned what I was capable of. I made lifelong friendships as well.

If a man is just starting to create his business wardrobe, what is the first type of suit he should buy? What will be his go-to suit for years to come?

I would buy a basic black suit in middleweight wool. It can be casual and dressed up with a black tie and tux shirt. Flat front pants, PLEASE! Take the suit and have it tailored for your body. It's very inexpensive and it makes a huge difference.

Are there any "rules" men should follow when choosing the right suit for their body types?

If you have short legs, make sure the jacket isn't too long. If you are broad, you don't need a lot of shoulder padding. Never underestimate the power of a good tailor to alter your suit and fit your body type.

What's your favorite suit style? What about the style that's most universally flattering?

Right now, I like the 2-button notched collar suit with a slimmer fit. The same suit that is not so fitted is flattering on every body type.

Any tips on creating the most versatile business wardrobe possible without breaking the bank and requiring an extra closet?

Buy a couple of basic suits and have them well tailored to fit. Change them up with dress shirts and ties. Also, discount stores like Daffy's and Century 21 have Italian suits that are marked down from $800+ down to $150 or so.

How should a man choose suits to best match his coloring? Do you have any tips on accessorizing those suits?

Well, dark colors like black, charcoal or navy work on everyone. I shy away from "colored" suits because they look clownish.

You can do a lot with a beautiful shirt and tie. I also like pocket squares, tiepins and lapel pins - just not altogether.

Other types of clothing tend to change with the seasons and trends. How would you say business attire adapts to the changing times? For example, are certain shirt colors in style more one season vs. another, or are they stable over the seasons/years?

Everything changes every season. Silhouettes, colors, textures. One season pinstripes are in and out the next. If you stay basic then you don't have to worry about looking "last season"

What is the best thing a man can wear to make the following statements:

• Hire me. Well-fitted suit but conservative.

• I'm capable, dependable, and deserve a promotion. Same as above but with a bit more flare.

• I'm the guy of your dreams. A fitted tee and a worn out pair of jeans.

What can a man look for in a suit before purchasing to assure himself that the suit is high quality and will last for years?

Check the fabrication and the thread count. The thread count should be as close to 150 as possible. Check lining and details to assure quality. Look to see where the suit is made as well. Pick Italy over countries like China or Bangladesh where they are just looking to save money.

Tell me three random things about yourself not related to fashion design.

1. I grind my teeth when I sleep.
2. I can wiggle each of my ears individually.
3. I hold a national record in competitive swimming.

Everyone could use a few tips when it comes to choosing a men's suit. Here's a summary:

• Go for dark, neutral colors like black, charcoal, or navy.
• Choose quality. Even if it costs more today, it'll last you longer than the "deal." You can find a great price on a desirable suit; just make sure to shop around.
• Choose simple, flat-front styles and get them tailored.

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