Custom Dress Shirts
From LoveToKnow Men's Fashion
For the gentleman who desires custom dress shirts and suits made to his specifications, tailor-made clothing can still be found. New York City-based Michael Andrews Bespoke is one such company that offers custom fitting and exquisite tailoring. Michael Mantegna, founder and CEO of custom clothier Michael Andrews Bespoke, granted LoveToKnow an exclusive interview where he discussed his company (founded with friend Andrew Wells), men’s style and what custom made clothing is all about.
About Michael Andrews Bespoke
Please give us some background on how you came to the menswear industry.
I’m a former lawyer, and when I worked for a law firm, I had to wear a suit every day. I hated this because they never fit the way I wanted them to. That is, until I ordered a custom suit on a whim while on vacation in Thailand. Although the fabric was garbage and the construction was shoddy, the fit was like nothing I had ever experienced before. After this, I became obsessed with having my clothes custom made and embarked on a three-year odyssey trying to find quality fabrics and good tailors. Along the way, my good friend Andrew Wells (the “Andrew” of Michael Andrews) suggested we start a business. He observed that we couldn’t be the only guys looking for quality custom clothing at reasonable prices. Fast forward a year and Michael Andrews Bespoke was born. Fortunately for us, Andrew was right – there are many guys out there who want exactly what we offer.
That’s an interesting way to come into the fashion business. What’s your guiding philosophy behind Michael Andrews Bespoke?
We started Michael Andrews Bespoke with the modest goal of changing the way men buy clothes. We promise every client uncompromised style, fit, craftsmanship, service and value. While we haven’t quite revolutionized the whole industry yet, our success over the last two years shows we’re on the right track.
Custom Dress Shirts and Suits
Since you’re in the business of custom designing clothes for each client, can you explain the differences between your collections (Black Label, Platinum, Signature)?
Suits in our Signature Collection are handmade by our master tailor on-site in our design studio. Suits in this collection are made using the highest level of bespoke tailoring available anywhere. Each jacket requires over 50 hours of hand sewing and includes at least three partial fittings during the construction process to ensure as close to perfect a fit as humanly possible.
Suits in our Platinum Collection are handmade in our workshop near Shanghai. These suits feature hand rolled lapels, handset collar and sleeves, handmade buttonholes, and other hallmarks of a traditional bespoke suit. Approximately 30 hours of expert tailoring goes into each of these suits.
Our Black Label Collection features the same styling, fit and details as our Platinum Collection, but much of the sewing is done using state-of-the-art equipment instead of being performed by hand.
People sometimes think custom clothing is too expensive for their budget. What benefits do clients receive for this custom service?
Quality does not come cheap, but advances in digital patternmaking and globalization within the tailoring industry has made custom clothing far more approachable than many people realize. For less than $1000, our customers can get 100 percent wool, full-canvas suit expertly tailored to their exact measurements for an exceptional fit unsurpassed by any ready-made garment. Moreover, each client can personalize his suit with a range of details such as vibrant silk linings, contrast stitching, colored felt under the collar, working buttonholes on the sleeves, and much more.
How do you go about choosing fabrics for each garment? How important is fabric selection in the outcome of your clothing?
When a client is choosing fabrics, we offer advice based on what we know about the customer and his sartorial needs.
While fabric quality is important, durability and price are not closely related. For instance, ultra luxurious fabrics (Super 200’s and up) can be very delicate and may not be ideal for busy professionals. That’s why we take the time to educate our clients and help them select fabrics that fit their lifestyle.
Custom Fitting and Trends
For men who’ve never had the benefit of a bespoke service, can you tell our readers what goes into a custom fitting?
The measuring process only takes about 10 minutes. We take up to 30 unique measurements and evaluate subtle aspects of posture and build to identify areas in which the garment’s pattern will need to be manipulated to achieve an optimal fit. Once the garment arrives, our expert alteration tailors make any final tweaks that are needed to get the suit just right.
Because your clothing is custom made, how closely do you follow current trends?
We emphasize a modern cut and unique details but strive to make garments that will stand the test of time. If a client wants bleeding edge design, we can do it, but I always point out that few items in a wardrobe look better than a well-cut blue pinstripe suit (with a purple paisley lining).
The Bespoke Client
Michael, please define your typical customer. Or, do you even have a typical customer?
Most of our customers are young professionals with a good sense of style. They typically come to us looking for a more tailored, contemporary fit than they find off the rack. Clients then are hooked on the creative satisfaction they get from designing their own individualized garments.
With your intuitive understanding of men’s fashion and style, what area(s) should men focus on the most when it comes to dressing well?
There is no “silver bullet” to ensuring you look good, but there are a few key principles that go a long way.
- First and foremost, make sure whatever you wear fits you properly. In my opinion, inexpensive clothes from retailers like Zara and H&M that offer a modern fit often look better than more expensive clothing from places like Brooks Brothers (the inventors of the American “sack” suit). If your clothes are too big, take them to a good tailor – they can often work miracles.
- Second, buy some new shoes. This is one item of clothing where cost and quality are highly related - it is hard to find a quality pair of shoes for less than $400 (unless you get them on sale). If you are a bargain hunter, check out the outlet stores at Woodbury Commons. The Gucci, Prada, Ferragamo and Bally outlets can have some good deals. Be sure to get a matching belt while you are there.
- Third, don’t try too hard. Skip the shortened pants and skinny jeans that are all the rage right now. Classic sophistication is the trend with real staying power.
If you want the satisfaction of finely tailored custom dress shirts and suits that will fit you like nothing else, check out the Michael Andrews Bespoke Web site and New York City store, which has built up favorable press buzz with its sophisticated design principles. Thank you, Michael, for educating our readers about the custom tailor business and teaching us how men can present a fashion-forward, yet classic image.
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