How to Fold a Handkerchief

Men's Handkerchief Slideshow

It may sound like a skill that's gone the way of wearing a watch fob or cleaning an LP, but it's still useful to know how to fold a handkerchief properly. You want it to sit smartly in your jacket pocket, ready to be whipped out at the appropriate moment of gallantry, or when a sneeze is imminent.

How to Fold a Handkerchief Basics

First, there is a difference between a pocket square and a pocket handkerchief, although the terms are often used interchangeably. The handkerchief is usually made of linen or white cotton and they tend to be crisper and stiffer, making them ideal for well-defined decorative lines. They also have sharper corners to better accentuate the points when folded.

A pocket square can be made of a range of materials, including silk, silk blends, cashmere or wool. The result is a softer accessory, usually more pleasant on the nose, and a different look in the jacket. A square will be folded into more of a puff, sometimes called a Cooper.

There are a number of folding styles. Here are some simple ones:

  • Presidential. This is considered the simplest fold, best for smaller pieces. You fold the handkerchief at right angles to fit it into the pocket.
  • TV Fold. When you look at films or TV shows in the 1940s and 1950s, this is the standard fold you will see on men's handkerchiefs. It is a conservative style similar to the Presidential except that it is folded diagonally and the point is placed inside the pocket.
  • One-Point Fold. For this fold, the handkerchief is also folded diagonally, but is tucked in the pocket so that the point is showing.

Intermediate Folds

Once you know the basics of how to fold a handkerchief, you may want to try some other techniques. Many of these look especially stylish when you have a patterned handkerchief or one in a rich color that complements your shirt or tie. Here are a few to start with:

  • Two-Point Fold. In this instance, you fold the handkerchief off center so that the points don't completely overlap.
  • Three-Point Fold. Fold the handkerchief into a triangle and then fold the corners up and across to make three even points.
  • Four-Point Fold. The same as a three-point, except in this case the points are off center.

Further Techniques

If you wear many good suits and like to look sharp, you may want to explore more variants in how to fold a handkerchief. For most of these, you can certainly teach yourself, but you might ask the advice of a salesman in a high-end men's clothing store too. That way, you can be sure you're performing the fold correctly.

  • Cagney. Named for the great James Cagney, of course, this is nothing more than a backwards version of the four-point, as well as a great excuse to watch some Cagney films.
  • Astaire. It's hardly surprising that one of the most stylish men in old movie musicals got a fold named after him. Used for a pocket square, this is a puff with a point on either side.
  • Straight Shell. Here, the handkerchief is pleated before you fold it over, thus making it look like nested shells.
  • Diagonal Shell. The same theory and general effect, but the handkerchief is pleated diagonally before folding.

Why Use a Handkerchief

These days, most men and many women incorporate squares and handkerchiefs into their suits for the simple reason that it's elegant and adds interest to what otherwise might be an overly dark, plain look. Nevertheless, handkerchiefs get a bad rap as unsanitary when you want to blow your nose in them, even though this is what they were meant for and how they were used for centuries. In addition to being better for the environment than a disposable tissue, handkerchiefs are softer on the nose and absorbent. Just remember to throw them in with the rest of the laundry, and there is no reason not to use them for more than just decoration.